Rolling Shots: A Cyclist's Review of the Leica M6
Reviews of the Leica M6 are not hard to find on the Internet; there are hundreds of videos about it on YouTube, and you'll likely find all the information you need there. However, in this age of an unending stream of information about everything we desire, the source or origin of that information becomes increasingly valuable from a case-by-case perspective. What do you need to know?
For instance, when it comes to camera or lens reviews, I get very little value from someone who only shoots portraits in a studio. That's why I thought some of you might be interested in my take on the Leica M6.
I'll start with how I ended up choosing the Leica.
Over the years, I have used various cameras, primarily SLRs such as the Contax RTS, Nikon F3 and F100, but also numerous point-and-shoot models that all let me down at some point. At one stage, I tried something different with a Voigtländer Bessa R2, but ultimately did not enjoy the rangefinder experience. And it's important to note that beyond a certain level of quality, the camera you use in film photography has minimal to no-impact on your final outcome. It all depends on your film, lens, settings, and composition. However! The camera body you select will influence the way you shoot. And as someone who had very specific criteras on how and when I want to use a camera, here is my checklist for the ideal 35mm:
Light and compact
After years of using a Bulky Nikon F3 and F100 (with winder), I needed something smaller and lighter for easier travel, as well as less bulky for bike rides.
Fully Mechanical and repairable
The "youngest" film cameras are now twenty to thirty years old, and most of them were not designed with repair in mind. Fixing a broken or oxidized PCB on an older camera is, at the least, challenging. But usually it’s impossible. Finding one with a mechanical shutter system and the least amount of electronic features is a good way to ensure that you'll be able to use and repair all the basic functions even years after purchasing it.
Good lens compatibility
Even in today's era where every conceivable lens to body adapter is available, having a camera body that is compatible with high-quality lenses, such as the Nikon F system for instance, is an effective way to future-proof your next photographic endeavor. People generally don’t put poor-quality glass on a good body. High-quality lenses are a mark of a good camera to which they can be attached.
Overall feeling and quality
Having a camera that feels good in your hands encourages you to use it regularly. Carry it with you everywhere and enjoy the process beyond just the end result. If it's made of metal, fits comfortably in your hands, and features high-quality features, you'll want to have that camera with you at all times.
The M6 meets all my criteria; it's significantly lighter than an F3 and more compact as well. It's fully mechanical, featuring an independent light meter, that if damaged, the camera continues to function normally. There are numerous Leica repair services worldwide, and lenses for the M system are renowned for their quality. Finally, it just feels great in my hands! However, there are a few drawbacks. Firstly, the price is undeniably high; I never ever though I was going to own something so expensive. My second concern was with the rangefinder system. Transitioning from the F3 and F100, I was accustomed to a bright and almost perfect preview of my shots. Which was not the case on the Bessa or point-and-shoots that utilize viewfinders instead of mirror systems (like SLRs). Aligning the rangefinder patch to focus proved challenging for me, and I really thought it wasn’t for me. But if you want to go smaller, a rangefinder is literary the only option you have.
To my surprise, the M6's viewfinder is spotless, and after only a few weeks, I was as fast to focus with the Leica, as my F3.
Another major concern was shooting while on the bike. With a fast autofocus is perfect for the job, transitioning to something fully manual had me worried about losing the ability to capture images on the move. Again, it turns out zone focusing is an amazing tool, that I thought was a technique that only the “elite” knew how to do. But after understanding the mystic arts of this approach… it ended up being pretty easy. Lesson learned: it’s not that hard, and actually pretty good for what I want to do.
At the end of the day, it's just a good tool that gets the job done and can fit in my handlebar bag. I can take it with me when I go for a quick spin with some friends, or on long bike packing rides, without worrying about extra weight. The choice of lenses is quite impressive, but borderline insane when it comes to prices. I personally settled on a used 35mm Zeiss C-Biogon and a 50mm Voigtlander Nokton, which are, for now, enough for what I do, and were reasonably priced second hand.
Part of me really understands why so many professionals use this camera, but what really counts here, is: it does what I want, no more… no less.
It just works.
🎞: Kodak Color Plus 200
📷: Leica M6/M4
📍: Tokyo/New York
